Weds Feb 17 Sequoias and to Yosemite

We drove up into the mountains to Sequoia national forest today – consistently beautiful views, and a changing landscape. I really wanted to see the Sequoia trees in the snow – and the few groves in Yosemite aren’t accessible at this time of year (or at least, not accessible without a 2-3 mile hike through snow in each direction – not something I’m capable of at the moment! So we found Grant’s Grove in Kings Canyon National Park – a reasonably easy drive from the valley. A beautiful drive in itself, constantly going up and down mountains – we’ve gone from sea level to ~5,000 feet at least twice today – once to the Sequoias, then back down to the valley, and back up to Yosemite.

The trees were amazingly huge, and the place overall was just magical. Very quiet and still because of the snow, and very few people. I can imagine it gets to be a bit of a zoo in the summer, but at this time of year we almost had it to ourselves. Photos really don’t do it justice – those trees are just unimaginably huge and amazing – some of them have been growing here over 1500 years. The tiny people at the bottom of this picture should give you some idea.

The visitor centre was just about totally buried in snow – as you can see in the photos they’ve dug out a passage to the front door, and there are a few gaps between the snow slowly sliding off the roof, and the snow on the ground.

We caught the last of the sunset in Yosemite just as we arrived through the tunnel – the first sight you get is of El Capitan and Half Dome across the valley from each other. To see it for the first time just as the sun had gone down was amazing.

We stayed in the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite. I was so tired I had trouble stringing sentences together, and it was the first place we came across. More expensive than we intended, but it’s an amazing place. It’s been there almost since the park was declared a national park. I overdid things a bit with all the walking around the sequoia trees – Bryan had to put up with a not very coherent me this evening, and I passed out pretty much as soon as I hit my bed, having been unable to work out how to upload my photos from the camera to the laptop! Thank you Bryan for copying them all over for me – I’m almost totally filling up my memory cards each day, so it can’t be postponed.

Tuesday Feb 16 – back to LA

The boys and I flew back to LA today. We left Annapolis early, finding this amazing icicle growing outside the garage this morning, and to more snow – including astounding quantities piled up everywhere at Baltimore airport. They’ve closed one of the carparks and piled the snow a couple of stories high – to clear the runways. And the great news – Alex found the camera! It had fallen out of my pocket and wedged in an obscure spot under my seat. Jacqui had looked there Sunday, but it was only visible once we removed some a couple of seats to make space for the luggage.

We flew via Atlanta, and we didn’t have much time to get from one flight to the other. I’d booked on Delta’s website, and presumed that if they offered the connecting flight to LA, it’d be plenty of time to get from one plane to the other. But not so much, Atlanta is one of the biggest airports in the country and the next flight was in a different terminal building!

But the mobility assistance guy who arrived to push my wheelchair was terrific. He got us from one terminal to another (via a dedicated subway that’s entirely within the security zone), and to the gate with 5 mins to spare. I’m so glad we had him along – even if I’d been able to walk that fast, I doubt we could have even FOUND the gate for our second flight in time. I’ve had assistance at each airport – someone meets me at the plane door with a wheelchair and pushes me to the luggage pickup where I’m reunited with Bertha. Without exception, they’ve all been very friendly and helpful. Come to that, everyone here is. Customer service people are obviously hoping for better tips or sales, but even your average person on the street is unfailingly polite and helpful.

Flying over Texas and Arizona you could see the economic issues from the sky – at least in the housing industry. Large slabs of land had been partially prepared for development – and then abandoned. Half built houses, large numbers of new subdivisions with streets and kerbs, but not a single house built or started.

I also saw a huge meteor crater flying over Arizona – after a bit of googling, I think it’s “Meteor Crater” outside Flagstaff as listed in Wikipedia. Huge, perfectly shaped, amazing to see from the air.

My friend Bryan from work met us at LAX – he’s joining me for a road trip to Sequoia National Park, Yosemite, Monterey, and then down the Californian coast to San Diego this week. We got the boys all checked in for their flight to Sydney – and succeeded in getting them exit row seats to give them some more leg room. We tried but failed to get some dinner in the space saucer restaurant – it’s only open part time due to renovations, and we missed them by a half hour. Oh well. After some debate we left the boys to their own devices and Bryan and I set off – we were keen to get as far north as possible to allow for plenty of sightseeing tomorrow! We got as far as Fresno (360 km north of LA). The roads here are generally much better than in Australia – not as well maintained, but built to allow for much more (and faster) traffic.

Driving to Fresno it looked like Holland, except for the occasional hills and mountains on the very distant horizon. Totally flat, and agricultural. A freaky feeling when it’s interspersed with very American strip malls, motels, etc along the road – like they’ve somehow put two continents into a blender, and this is the result.

Monday Feb 15, Annapolis

Mostly another quiet day at home (well, our Coleman-Annapolis home, anyway – thank you to Nikki, Steve, Hannah and Jacqui for making us feel so welcome). Nikki, Hannah and I are all running a bit short on spoons and need the rest, so a quiet day was good. Nikki especially has been pushing herself a bit too hard – with her medication changes and our visit, I think she’s overdone it – but then, that’s not exactly new. Nikki, I hope by the time I manage to post this you’ve had a chance to recover a bit.

Nikki took me to Annapolis downtown late in the afternoon so I could take some photos. Lots of pretty, old style shops and lots of snow (what’s new?). Steve took Hannah, Jacqui, Alex and Scott to the comic book store again – the boys were elated to discover that the owner is knowledgeable, helpful, and happy to post whatever they like to Australia – at very reasonable rates. They’ve had a lot of trouble finding what they want in Australia, and even when they do, it’s two or three times as expensive (even including postage). So I’m guessing quite a bit of their future income is going towards graphic novels.

I spent a lot of the day packing, working out what goes with me for the next 2 weeks in California, and what goes back to Australia with the boys. Hopefully I’ve got it right and won’t be lugging around too much extraneous stuff the next fortnight. I’ve been a bit worried I’ll lumber myself with more luggage than I can manage (knowing I’m not the best at packing light, ROFL). We’ll see how I cope, but I’ve managed to reduce it to about 15kg in a duffel bag I can carry on Bertha – plus Bertha, her charger and all her parts, plus about 7kg of hand luggage (mostly laptop, cameras and lenses – what else would you expect???)

Sunday Feb 14, Washington DC

We drove into DC today. As everywhere else, the roads are partly blocked by snow, and the traffic was worse than we’ve seen anywhere else (including NY).

As we approached the city, we saw Marine One leaving, presumably with the President on board, since there were two additional helicopters flying in formation. Again, like with New York, it was a bit eerie seeing sights that are so familiar, yet not. Weird feeling, like you’ve walked into your TV somehow.

Alex has become very interested in taking photos this trip, which has mostly been great – except when we both want the camera at once, LOL! Sadly, we lost the second camera today – the one I bought in Times Square last week. Somewhere between the National Museum of American History and the car it went missing. Hopefully someone handed it in in the museum – we’ll give them a ring next week.

The museum was fascinating, we saw the original star spangled banner, a display on slavery and a 200 year old house which has been relocated from near Boston, showing various stages in its occupation. Alex was thrilled to see C3PO in the “flesh”.

We were pretty limited in what we could do by a combination of snow and the number of spoons all of us had, so we drove around a bit and saw some of the sights from the car, including the Capitol, the Washington Monument and the Jefferson Memorial. Amazing how they’ve built temples to all these old Presidents – a very different attitude to past leaders than we have in Australia, or even than the British have to their royalty.

We stopped at the Lincoln memorial, got out and took a bit of a walk (or in my case, wheel) around. The reflecting pool (which runs between the Lincoln and the Capitol, and is over 600m long) was frozen over, with tourists walking on it. Apparently someone fell through the ice a few days ago, and had to be rescued (it’s less than waist deep, but the ice made it hard to get out). That doesn’t seem to be stopping everyone else, though.

In various ways it’s clear that America is still struggling economically. Homeless people outside the Whitehouse, no money for plowing or salting the roads, many roads aren’t being repaired properly, and there are potholes everywhere. And this year the kids have missed a lot of school due to the snow. Normally, that means they extend the school year by a week to make up the days. But this year, they won’t, since there’s not enough money to pay the extra wages (teachers don’t get paid during vacations here, so it’s a big expense). Unfortunately, there is still plenty of cash to fund two wars πŸ™

Alex, Scott, Jacqui and I walked to the front of the Whitehouse, as Alex was keen to take a few pictures.

Friday 12 and Saturday 13 – Shopping, sleeping and not much else

OK, I’m cheating and doing two days in one. But honestly, we’ve done very little. We’ve caught up on our sleep – which I badly needed. My health’s doing well, but this week of relaxing and doing not too much has been badly needed.

We’ve spent plenty of time catching up and hanging out – we’ve all missed each other while the Colemans have been here. Steve, Scott and Alex have been playing Magic and a bunch of other card games, and we’ve all been watching the Olympics.

We’ve also been to the shops – as if we hadn’t done enough shopping in NY! Scott and Alex now have enough clothes to last them for a good few years (and can stop wearing the jeans I bought them when I was last in the US in 2006, we’ve now re-stocked). My bankruptcy will be announced shortly.

The snow is endless – they’ve been busy plowing and salting, but there’s literally nowhere to put it. In some locations they’re carting it away in trucks and dumping it in remote locations.

This photo of the carpark at the local Westfield (yep, they’ve got ’em here too) gives you some idea – this is what it looks like pretty much everywhere – snow stacked several metres high wherever you look, blocking access, parking spaces, whatever. Footpaths are all non-existent, and most roads are only partially plowed. I don’t have any issues driving on the wrong side or with different road rules, but I’m really glad I’m not trying to drive around here.

To add to the problems, there’s a shortage of salt and plowing equipment (because of the extreme conditions) and because of the economy many cities and states just don’t have the money to pay for sufficient or timely plowing – after the last storm they delayed for a day because they couldn’t afford to pay the Sunday overtime.

Thurs Feb 11 – After the snow

We woke up to sunshine today – with lots of icicles and snow everywhere. The boys got to learn how to dig out a car:

We dug out the car to go grocery shopping – apart from that (which is always fascinating in a foreign country), we did not much. I wandered around and took a few more photos:

Weds Feb 10 – Blizzard!

We woke up to a world of white today. Steve, Nikki, Hannah and Jacqui are spending this year in Annapolis while Steve is on sabbatical, doing ethics research at the Naval Academy. They’re staying in Navy housing – and the building dates from 1870. It’s been beautifully restored into a large 3 bedroom apartment with high ceilings and wooden floors – only in the basement can you see the age of the building.

The snow that dumped today took the total for the winter to an all-time record of 201cm – the average annual fall here is 36cm! Everyone here is talking about it.

The boys and I have only ever seen two lots of snow – walking on a glacier in Switzerland in 2000, and in January 1996 when we had a dusting at Falls Creek. This is just in a whole new category. Words escape me – here’s some photos of today:

From left to right: Alex, Mim, Hannah, Nikki and Scott.

Tuesday Feb 9 – going to Annapolis

We’re off to Annapolis today. 3 1/2 hours on a bus, then a half hour in the car (Nikki collected us from the bus).

But first, we had to pack and say our goodbyes to New York, and I had some last minute shopping to do. My wallet disintegrated last December, and I’d decided to wait till I got to New York to replace it. It was a beautiful morning, not too cold (only a couple of C below freezing, we’ve adjusted quickly) and I was feeling well, so I decided to walk. I left the boys with instructions to pack and wash the dishes, and off I set.

I quickly realised that the flatiron building was still on my “to see” list and was less than a block off my route, so I diverted past there to take a few photos. And then, of course, I found a souvenir shop with a great range of black and white photos of manhattan in the window, and had to stop and take a look. So now, when I get home, I’ll be able to hang a few framed prints on my walls. Pity they won’t be my own, but that can’t be helped. Maybe next time.

I’m again struck by the contrasts in the city. Huge avenues open up in one direction, and then you suddenly have grungy residential streets, or bustling light industrial or commercial ones in the other.

Pretty much everyone is friendly, helpful and polite. One thing that’s really surprised me is how safe I’ve felt here. Mind you, we’ve stuck to the lower half of Manhattan. But some of these areas aren’t exactly been upmarket.

So after we finished getting packed, we were aiming to get some really good burgers before we caught the bus – but we failed. We were almost out of time, and the taxi driver was unhelpful (one of only two in our entire stay). So he dropped us just near the Empire State Building (behind Scott in the photo) and while we waited Scott found us some food to tide us over. One of the things I regret is not getting up the top of the Empire State – maybe next time. Despite being completed in 1931, it’s again (since 9/11) the tallest building in New York.

The bus picked us up, and we headed out of town, through New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Delaware to Maryland. It was slightly surreal, for those of you who are Sopranos fans, we followed a large part of the route in the opening credits. As we drove, there was more and more snow on the ground, rivers were frozen, and you could see the clouds closing in as the storm got closer. When we got off the bus in Baltimore, we had to battle our way around thigh-deep drifts of snow beside the bus stop, and shortly after we arrived in Annapolis it started to come down in earnest.

Nikki collected us from the bus, and we were at their place a half hour later. I’ll talk more about their place in tomorrow’s post – almost as soon as I came in the door I was asleep. Much as I enjoyed New York, and I tried to take it easy, I still managed to use a few too many spoons in the last week – good thing that this next week we’re taking it easy!

Monday Feb 8 Moma, Lower East Side and Staten Island Ferry

Scott and I were up and out early again to go to the Museum of Modern Art to see an exhibition of Tim Burton’s works (http://www.moma.org/visit/calendar/exhibitions/313). Tim Burton created Edward Scissorhands, Sweeney Todd and a bunch of other movies, often working with Johnny Depp. Scott’s been a fan for a long time, and we both really enjoyed it. Burton has a really amazing imagination! We then stocked up on some books from the exhibition, as well as some photo books of New York. That made me feel a little better about not really being able to take any of my own photos – it’s just too cold, and I don’t have enough spoons. I also bought a great book of Ansel Adams’ photos in preparation for my visit to Yosemite National Park next week.

Laden down with books we got in yet another taxi, went back to the apartment and collected Alex (and dropped off all the books!). We’d noticed signs plastered all over our neighbourhood that Law and Order SVU was filming, so we went and had a sticky beak. Not much to see, it seemed like they were packing up. Scott thought we’d seen one of the stars earlier, so we’ll have to watch out for familiar streets in future episodes.

We then caught yet another taxi to the Lower East side, and had lunch in Katz’s deli – a kosher deli dating from 1888, which appears to not have been altered since about 1950. It’s where the “I’ll have what she’s having” scene from When Harry Met Sally was filmed. They have a name for having huge sandwiches. The meat was fantastic (we had one pastrami and one roast beef, both delicious) but the sandwiches overall were a little underwhelming. It was getting colder and colder, but Scott wanted to go to another menswear store in the area, and I wanted to have a look around. However Scott’s store had shut down (a victim of the economy, I’m guessing) and it was FREEZING cold, so we got yet another cab to the Staten Island Ferry, and the boys are getting better and better at folding and unfolding Bertha the wheelchair, and getting her in and out of the taxis. Most taxi drivers are quick to get out of the taxi, and happy to help.

The ferry trip was great. Beautiful light, great views, we rode past the statue of liberty and back. Alex and I had a great time taking lots of photos, although we were very nearly blown off the back of the ferry. The view of the city from there at almost sunset was just fantastic. However, the camera didn’t like it so much, and we AGAIN lost all the photos on the memory card because it just got too cold. I’m hoping I can retrieve them – it says there are no files on it, but there’s 5GB of space unaccounted for.

We packed a lot into today because we’re going to Annapolis a day early. They’re forecasting another snowstorm, which is expected to pretty much close both New York and Annapolis.

But there’s one more thing which we have to do before we leave New York – having a rib dinner at a jazz club. I thought I could lure the boys in with the ribs, but they were really keen about the jazz, too. We had a great night out – small little club in a cellar a couple of blocks from our apartment. Good food, good music, great atmosphere. What more could you want?

Sunday Feb 7

I’ve gotten way behind – too busy exploring Manhatton to be blogging! I’m going to attempt to catch up in the next day or two, but keep adding one entry for each day.
OK, Sunday. First things first – Jacqui ended up spending another night with us – yay! This morning we went and took a look at Times Square – it was about -8C so we escaped into a McDonalds in an attempt to keep warm. I caved in and bought another (small point and shoot) camera from a fast-talking salesman, in the hopes that we’ll be able to actually take (and keep) some photos without the camera freezing. This was definitely the most touristy place we went in New York, and we didn’t end up hanging around for long.

Then we walked (OK, I wheeled) Jacqui over to Grand Central Station, where she was meeting a friend to head to Ohio en route to a homeschooler conference. Grand Central was awesome in the literal sense – huge vaulted ceiling, and marble as far as the eye can see. After that Alex headed home for some peace and quiet (he’s been having a bit of trouble adjusting to the hustle and bustle of New York) and Scott and I went shopping – the beginning of Scott’s New York sartorial extravaganza – he’s going to be far and away the best dressed glassie in Sydney when he gets back. I must say, he’s not the only one who’s stocking their wardrobe πŸ™‚

After all that we were pretty stuffed, so headed back to the apartment. Scott promptly fell asleep (we’re all still living in some indeterminate time zone). Alex and I headed out to try to buy him a watch at the Macys β€œ20% off if you’re wearing red” sale – but failed. On our way home we explored the neighbourhood a little, finding a 7 eleven that doesn’t sell pies and sausage rolls, but then found a great Mexican takeaway – Scott ate half his in a haze of sleep and was back in bed 5 minutes later.

We’ve been doing all this to-ing and fro-ing mostly in taxis – which is proving to be not only cheap, but also a great way to do sightseeing, especially since it’s too cold to do as much walking as we’d like. Today we went past the New York library – where the huge wave came down the street in “The Day after Tomorrow”.